Here are my colour samples for the rocks
Finally, I added beading to the foreground sand.
Before beading, I loaded monofilament in both upper and lower feeds and put in a size 60 needle (A size 70 will work for most seed beads, but not all). The machine is still set for free motion, and if you are using a darning foot, you need to remove it.
Beading is done in a hoop with the foot lever down, but no foot attached.
I add beads to the hoop one at a time. If you add more, they will jiggle all over the place as you stitch. In the above picture I have picked up a bead on a very fine stilletto.
Above, you can see I have placed the bead close to where I am going to put it.
At this point, I can move the hoop and position the bead wherever I want using the needle.
When it is in the correct position, I use the foot pedal and make three to five stitches, the first one or two inside the bead and the rest outside.
The bead is attached and this is repeated for each bead.
This seems, complicated, but after a bit of practice, you will be doing it quite quickly. In reality is is only slightly faster than doing it by hand, but I find it more efficient, and there are less threads on the back of the work.
HINT: Always hand turn the needle into the bead. You will find that you can manouever the bead to standing if it is on it's side and move it where you want it easily, more importantly, hand turning also helps to weed out the misformed beads, because if the bead is too small, you will feel that the needle is not fitting, and be able to remove the bead before the bead cracks, the needle breaks, or the thread breaks, all of which will happen if you use the motor to sew into a too small bead.
Don't fear failure so much that you refuse to try new things. The biggest regrets in life all start with could have, might have, or should have.